The Gardenisto

The Gardenisto is passionate about aquaponics, hydroponics, horticulture, and traditional gardening. The Gardenisto shares his knowledge to help other enthusiasts in their own gardening endeavors.

Real World Arduino Relay Use

| November 29, 2012
Photo Credit: Keith Knoxsville
A Hen and a Drake Green Teal on the truck bed. Not a limit on anything, but a fun morning out.

Microcontrollers, like the Arduino, are great for manipulating lower voltage devices. On their own, they are limited in terms of the amount of voltage and current they can provide to devices. Many first Arduino projects involve motors, and LEDs, that require the use of transistors and additional external power sources.

Relay Wire Diagram Control System

Gardenisto DIY Relays

Gardenisto DIY Arduino Relay

To make full use of a microcontroller for home, garden, and hydroponic system manipulation, such as controlling lighting, pumps, and other AC devices, relays(buy one) need to be used.

If we had a legal team, they’d probably want us to cover our ass against stupidity. So here it is:
Warning! This is not a definitive guide to wiring AC applications, working with live electrical currents is dangerous, and can result in serious injuries, death, or damage to one’s property. Gardenisto and its authors are in No Way responsible for any injuries, damages, or deaths, caused by the use or misuse of the information contained on the Gardenisto website. Use of the information is at one’s own risk.

Now that we can carry on, what is a relay?

Very basically, it is an electrically operated switch, where the signal voltage source is completely isolated from the voltage being switched on or off.

For our example application of manipulating a 150 watt light from a wall outlet, we used a 120 volt 25 amp DC – AC solid state relay that will switch on when a voltage as low as 3 volts is applied. A suitable 10 amp ss relay can be purchased from suppliers like this one – Jameco

This works perfectly with the Arduino 5 volt output, on a digital pin. Not all microcontrollers will operate at 5 volts, some will operate at around 3.3v, so it is critical to understand the hardware you are using, and the interoperability of all your components.

Unplugged, and unpowered, we wired the relay to an appropriate gauge Black AC wire, and finished the AC wiring to an AC wall receptacle mounted to our project enclosure. The receptacle was also selected based on application, and is rated to handle the amperage of our lighting.

While the diagram for wiring a relay is quite simple, simple wiring mistakes can have serious consequences. So be careful, double check yourself, and never work with live electrical currents.

The remaining portion of the system requires the output of the microcontroller. A script turns the digital state of a pin HIGH. The high state toggles the relay, allowing current to flow through the relay.

The other end of the relays DC side is grounded, per the diagram.

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Grow Garlic from Bulbils (seed)

| November 27, 2012
Photo Credit: Keith Knoxsville
A Hen and a Drake Green Teal on the truck bed. Not a limit on anything, but a fun morning out.

Garlic Bulbils (seeds)Most people grow garlic from cloves. The bulbs are broken apart, and individual cloves pulled off. Cloves exhibit obvious signs that they are ready to plant. Roots grow from the bottom basal plate, and the tops turn greenish.

If garlic is allowed to grow out, it will produce a long central stalk with a flower and bulb. The bulb will contain tiny bulbils that are suitable for planting.

Unlike the cloves pulled from a mature bulb of garlic, bulbils will take more than one season to grow. Some varieties will take longer than others.

The benefit however, is that 10 garlic bulbs might produce 5 to 10 cloves, whereas the same plant can produce as many as 100 bulbils or more. The amount of bulbils will depend on the variety.

At the end of last season we collected 15 bulbs and collected nearly 300 bulbils. In fall, we replanted two cloves, and about 100 bulbils, about three bulbils per ½” deep hole.

In retrospect, we should have planted more garlic cloves to have more for immediate consumption in spring, but we ate them instead! This planting will yield two bulbs, with around 10 to 30 cloves, and a little over 30 smaller garlic plants. In warmer climates, garlic is ready to be harvested as early as spring.

If you live in a cooler climate and are uncertain of when to harvest, wait until half the garlic plant is dead. Remove the bulbs from the ground, and clean them off with a rinse of cool water.

A lot of people say not to wash after harvest, but we do it to remove extra dirt. Just be careful not to bruise your garlic. To prevent excess moisture, gently pat them dry with a towel. Let the garlic dry in a cool dry place out of the sunlight.

Depending on the temperatures and size of the bulbs, the skin on the bulbs will turn paper like and the cloves will be ready for consumption in as little as a few days or as long as a couple weeks.

UPDATE 6-18-2014
Made garlic bread, and processed some garlic for Kimchi. Guess where the garlic came from! Its beautiful too.
gyo heirloom garlic

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Analog Soil Moisture Sensor

| November 20, 2012
Photo Credit: Keith Knoxsville
A Hen and a Drake Green Teal on the truck bed. Not a limit on anything, but a fun morning out.

There are a lot of DIY moisture sensor articles out there. They are quite basic in principle. Gardenisto articles assume basic knowledge of programming, microcontrollers, and circuit design. We generally prefer to use the Arduino for our applications, as it is so widely used and supported. Our example code is also written in C, and intended for use on the Arduino.

This article focuses on the principle of analog sensor measuring via the Arduino microcontroller, as well as real world usage in a hydroponic coco coir growing medium.

How does a moisture sensor work? As water saturation increases, so does the conductivity of the soil or growing medium. If a small electric current is applied to one sensor lead, then at some fraction of that current should be measurable on another sensor lead a small distance away.

Galvanized nails are also commonly used, simple and effective, but for our basic moisture sensor, we went a little more compact. Two lengths of insulated steel jumper wires are secured in heat shrink tubing. The ends are left exposed. On one end the exposed leads are bent almost 180 degrees back. Caution should was taken to ensure the bent leads are not in contact with one another.

The wires are inserted into a small diameter aluminum tube, just short enough to leave both ends exposed and workable.

DIY Moisture Sensor

Whilst leaving both ends exposed and workable, wrap and secure heat shrink tubing beyond the full length of the tube. The entire thing should feel rigid. This will allow the sensor to hold up to being moved from location to location, and a little abuse.

Our example keeps the wiring fairly simple. It is possible to over complicate the circuit with transistors, or a power source that flips back and forth to prevent an electroplating effect and corrosion of the sensor leads, but for our example we left it simple.

We did add a variable 100k potentiometer to make minor mechanical adjustments.

We ran the power wire to a digital pin, the ground pin to the ground, and the sensor wire to an analog pin on our microcontroller. Our microcontroller is an Arduino, based on the C programming language. They are inexpensive, and have made professional level hardware interfacing available to any hobbyist.

To check soil moisture, we turn on the digital pin which powers the sensor, and give it a fraction of a second to stabilize. We then take analog readings on our analog pin. The readings are done inside of a loop to gather 20 readings before taking the average.


for (i = 0; i < 20; i++){   val = val + analogRead(analogMoisture); } val = val / 20; // take average val = val / 4; // scale to 8 bits (0 - 255)

The digital power pin for the sensor is then turned off. The result is printed to the serial monitor. The following code was extracted from a larger coding block of a more advanced sensor, and formatted to run independently as a simple Arduino program. Entering ‘2’ into the serial monitor will return readings.


/*
* Simple analog moisture sensor.
*
* Leave us a question or comment at http://www.gardenisto.com
*
************************************************************/

int analogMoisture = 0; // pin number of analog moisture sensor readings
int digitalSensorPower = 12; // power up/down pin for sensor readings

int i; // variable used in FOR loops as counter
int val; // variable for reading Moisture status
int intSerialVal = 0;

void setup() {
   pinMode(analogMoisture, INPUT);
   pinMode(digitalSensorPower, OUTPUT);
   Serial.begin(9600);
}

void loop(){

   intSerialVal = Serial.read();
   if ( intSerialVal == '0') {
     digitalWrite(digitalSensorPower, HIGH);
     delay(10); // 10 milisecond delay for stability post power on

     for (i = 0; i < 20; i++){        val = val + analogRead(analogMoisture); // sensor on analog pin 0      }      val = val / 20; // average      val = val / 4; // scale to 8 bits (0 - 255)      Serial.println(val); // Send Sensor Readings      digitalWrite(digitalSensorPower, LOW);      } }

So what does the returning value mean? Before using our sensor on our coco coir growing medium, we created a set of controls by measuring cold water, warm water, and air. The values we attained were: H20 cold:149-146, H20 warm:163-161, Air:0. For a healthy plant in our growing environment, we try and let soil cycle between partially dry, and wet but not over watered. We determined our plant health was optimal when the coco coir moisture level was in the 120-127 range after watering.

Of course, there are additional considerations to make, as you'll notice from the controls. The electro conductiviy of water changes with temperature as well as the level of salinity caused by nutrients in the growing medium. I'll expand on these issues in a more advanced post, but for simple moisture monitoring this method is simple and effective.

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Heirloom & Open Pollinated

| September 8, 2012
Photo Credit: Keith Knoxsville
A Hen and a Drake Green Teal on the truck bed. Not a limit on anything, but a fun morning out.

An heirloom plant is a cultivar that existed before plant breeders introduced hybrid cultivars. However, authorities don’t agree on an exact cutoff date.

Although open-pollinated cultivars have been introduced after 1951, a widely accepted date, others believe the cultivar needs to have a documented history of 50 or even 100 years. Some believe the date to be 1945.

Regardless of which camp you are in, the basic principals generally apply. The plant must be open pollinated, and cannot be a hybrid produced by a breeder through controlled pollination or genetic modification.

There are some caveats and exceptions. A good example is Bloody Butcher Corn, which has a rich documented history dating back to about 1845, but originated in the 1800′s by mixing Native American corn with settlers’ corn. Which makes it a hybrid, but it predates most authorities’ standards.

Other cultivars, like Oaxacan Green Corn or Hopi Blue corn more closely adhere to the rules, and are ancient varieties that have existed for centuries.

So what is the open pollinated component to the heirloom rules? Open pollination is pollination through natural mechanisms. Those mechanisms include, insects such as bees, birds, wind, or self pollinating(cleistogamy) plants.
There are also exceptions and caveats to open pollination. Many heirloom cultivars have been propagated and maintained through cuttings and transplants, which requires no pollination. With the exception of self pollinating plants, open pollination does not regulate the parent source of pollination.

Open pollination results in plants with a wider variation in genetic traits, and increases biodiversity. In that way, the principles of open pollination clash with the definitions and principles of heirloom cultivars. A 1st generation of an open pollinated cultivar can produce undesirable ‘rogue’ plants, that exhibit genetic traits that are significantly different from their parent plant.

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LED Grow Lights

| September 6, 2012
Photo Credit: Keith Knoxsville
A Hen and a Drake Green Teal on the truck bed. Not a limit on anything, but a fun morning out.

DIY LED Lightitng

Build your own hydroponic LED growlight/system for germinating indoors. The system powers 1-4 3watt RGB LEDs on the Red and Blue channels.

The system easily fits on a bookshelf or desktop, and provides enough light for small sprouting plants to grow both thick foliage, and healthy stalks. Adjustable lighting height, prevents leggy growth.

Gardenisto takes no responsibility for the accuracy of the information posted, any injuries, death, or damages resultant from incorrectly attaching electrical devices.

Components
3x 1 watt RGB LEDS
3x Constant Current LED drivers
1x Sheet .125 Lexan
Nylon 4-40 Screw
4-40 washers and nuts
Large Project Enclosure or Conduit Box
AC Power cable (scrapped from old electronics)
12g 600v UL Cable (we actually used 18g)
24g UL Cable for dc wiring
¼” threaded rod and nuts
Mix pack of rubber grommets
Terminal Strip with a minimum 6 attachment strips
Terminal Jumper Strip
8 solderless terminal connectors

Drill w/Various Drill Bits
Skill Saw (or other saw for cutting plexi or lexan)

Basic Principles
LED Driver provides ample power for RGB LEDS
Red and Blue LEDs of the R-G-B LED will be powered, providing only usable light for germinating and growing young seedlings.

Pros
Compact Perfect for small desktop sized hydroponic germination units
Optionally Arduino controlled lighting
Low Power Consumption

Cons
Cost prohibitive versus off the shelf LED Grow lights with a standardized wall outlet
Power Consumption

Backside flush mount LED with nylon 4-40 screw, grommet, washer, and nuts
Flush mouonted rgb led with nylon 4-40 screwLED growlight DIYTrim Lexan to size of hydroponic bucket
Drill Center mounting post hole
Mark 4-40 size LED mounting holes
Mark center on lexan where LED will mount, this is where a cooling hole for the led will go
Drill mounting holes
Drill LED cooling holes
Mark and drill one additional hole, near each LED (this is where wires will pass to backside of lexan mounting plate)
Mark mounting holes for constant current LED drivers
Tap if enclosure is metal to prevent drill bit travel, then drill LED driver mounting holes
Mount LED drivers with 4-40 mounting screws and nuts

Solder the Red and Blue positive terminals to a red 24g wire approximately 3 feet in length
Solder the Red and Blue negative terminals to a black or green 24g wire approximately 3 feet in length
Repeat soldering for each LED on the system
Mount the LEDs to the Lexan mounting plate with Nylon 4-40 screws.
For a secure fit, place a rubber grommet on the backside of the mounting plate, sandwich the grommet with a washer and secure with a nut. Compression of the grommet will ensure a tight fit.
Run wires out of the way of the LEDs through the cable hole

Crimp terminal connectors to the Live and Neutral of the AC power cord
Cut and strip the ends off of 3 6 inch lengths of (Live Color) 12g wire
Cut and strip the ends off of 3 6 inch lengths of (Neutral Color) 12g wire
Crimp terminal connectors to a single end of each 6 inch length of wire

Cut the terminal jumper into two, three row lengths of the terminal strip.
Attach the LIVE end of the AC power cord to one set of the three terminals
Attach the NEUTRAL end of the AC power cord to the other set of three terminals
Attach the bare end of each 6 inch LIVE wire length to the constant currant LED driver in the appropriate screw terminal (Labelled “L”)
Attach the bare end of each 6 inch NEUTRAL wire length to the constant currant LED driver in the appropriate screw terminal (Labelled “N”)

Attach the terminal connector at the end of each 6 inch LIVE wire length to the LIVE terminal slots of the terminal strip.
Attach the terminal connector at the end of each 6 inch NEUTRAL wire length to the NEUTRAL terminal slots of the terminal strip.

Attach the LED wire leads to their respective LED driver screw terminals.
– Red wire to the screw terminals labeled “+”
– Black or Green wire to the screw terminals labeled “-”

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Mycorrhizae

| September 1, 2012
Photo Credit: Keith Knoxsville
A Hen and a Drake Green Teal on the truck bed. Not a limit on anything, but a fun morning out.

The science of plant health has moved well beyond basic plant nutrition. Research has shown the importance of proper nutrition, vitamins, plant hormones, light wavelengths, and even beneficial fungi.

Beneficial fungi that live in the rhizosphere(root system) of your plants, create a symbiotic relationship that can really help your plants thrive!

There are two primary ways these relationships work, and they involve two types of mycorrhiza. Endomycorrhiza(Endo – inside) and Ectomycorrhiza(Ecto – outside).

Endomycorrhizae penetrate the root walls, and feed on the host plants steady supply of carbohydrates in the form of sucrose and glucose. In return they create mycelia, thread like structures that extend outwards from the root walls. The mycorrhizae’s mycelia make both water and nutrients more available to the host plant through an increased surface area.

Ectomycorrhizae live outside the root walls of the host plant, and play host themselves to nitrogen fixing bacteria. These bacteria convert nitrogen into nitrate, which becomes usable to the host plant. The relationship increases the nitrogen available to a host plant, and allows a host plant to grow in nutrient poor locations.

Mycorrhizae effectively harden the host plant to drought, nutrient deficiency, and disease. Geek speak put aside for a minute, this is really good stuff. Fortunately, you don’t have to know someone on the inside of an agriculture research lab to get some either. Many products on the shelves at local nurseries, home improvement stores, and hydroponic shops, will carry products containing various mycorrhizae. If all else fails, buy it online.

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The Nitrogen Cycle

| June 5, 2012
Nitrogen Cycle
Photo Credit: Keith Knoxsville
A Hen and a Drake Green Teal on the truck bed. Not a limit on anything, but a fun morning out.

The nitrogen cycle is what makes an aquaponic system possible. The cycle is maintained by bacteria that transform the ammonia created by decomposing fish waste or organic matter, into a usable plant fertilizer. The process isn’t as complicated as you may think.

Firstly, decomposing fish food, fish waste, and other organic materials create Ammonia and Ammonium in the system.
Ammonia(NH3) + Ammonium(NH4)

Ammonia and Ammonium are converted by bacteria called Nitrosomonas into Nitrite.
Ammonia(NH3) + Ammonium(NH4) -> Nitrite (NO2)

The Nitrite is then processed by another bacteria call Nitrospira into Nitrate.
Nitrite(NO2) -> Nitrate (NO3)

Plants in the system both benefit from, and remove, nitrates in the system. This prevents toxic levels from developing in the water, and maintains fish health.

Without plants in the system, just like a fresh water aquarium, water changes need to be made frequently to eliminate nitrates.

[flv:http://www.gardenisto.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/VIDEO00031.flv 480 340]
Video: Black Mollies and Algae Eaters coexisting in water beneath squash plants.

Alternatively, beneficial bacteria that transform nitrates into harmless nitrogen gasses can be used in the system. Nitrogen gasses then escape through the surface of the water.

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DIY Organic Liquid Fertilizer

| May 22, 2012
DIY Hydroponic Fertilizer
Photo Credit: Keith Knoxsville
A Hen and a Drake Green Teal on the truck bed. Not a limit on anything, but a fun morning out.

Given the prices of already diluted or inorganic fertilizers, we thought it would be of value to our readership to get a quick guide on how to make your own organic liquid fertilizer. This is not a simple how to on the traditional ‘tea’, like compost, manure, earthworm casting, cinnamon, or chamomile tea, but an actual liquid kelp based fertilizer for use in the garden or in hydroponic system.

In addition to kelp that was freshly collected on the beach, other organic ingredients are added to the brew. They include calcium, magnesium, zinc, iron, molasses, sugar, and yucca extract.

  • Wash fresh kelp to remove excess salt and non plant material.
  • Blend on a high liquefy setting with equal parts dechlorinated or spring water, until contents are a liquified.
  • Strain emulsion over a small bucket.
  • Dissolve a couple table spoons of cane sugar, into one half cup of dechlorinated water
  • Add sugar water to bucket.
  • Add molasses and any other extracts, vitamins or minerals to the liquid.
  • Agitate the brew with an air pump, just like you’d aerate water in a fish tank. Do this in warm conditions, and agitate for a few hours at a minimum. Warmer liquid temperatures will help increase good bacteria growth, but too hot a temperature will kill them.
  • When the brew looks good and dark, pour the concentrate through a fine screen or or mesh to remove solids.
  • If you seal the cap on your storage container, you may need to ‘burp’ your container regularly to release gases created by the beneficial bacteria in your living fertilizer/brew.

Usage
Usage depends on concentration and plant feeding requirements. Concentrations can range from a ½ ounce per gallon to 1 part fertilizer per 3 parts water.

The frequency of use depends on system and fertilization needs. Use weekly in deep water culture systems and in out door gardens that require fertilization. The dilutions will depend greatly on how concentrated the original concentration is and the sensitivity of the target plant. Like most garden experiments either start small, and increase your usage, or use liberally on a donor plant you are willing to lose to observe a ‘lethal’ limit.

To create a more complete nutrient solution, mix with soluble urea, and humic acid at the time of use. As always, dilute before use.

Observations
Plants treated with the kelp based liquid fertilizer are exposed to the natural hormones and over 50 trace elements. Treated plants seem to maintain a healthier rhizosphere, and an improved tolerance to environmental stress, as is expected of good mycorrhizal activity.

Of course the observations are just that, observations. We have not cultured bacteria from a treated and non-treated plant, and measured the difference in beneficial bacteria. Nor have we intentionally stressed plants that were treated and measured survivability against any controls.

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Deep Water Culture Transplant

| May 8, 2012
Photo Credit: Keith Knoxsville
A Hen and a Drake Green Teal on the truck bed. Not a limit on anything, but a fun morning out.
While it is best to start a hydroponic garden from seed, it is also possible to transplant sprouts from containers and peat pots.

Transplanting sprouts from soil to a hydroponic system can introduce a lot of organic material. Organic materials can introduce destructive microbes, mold spores, and disease that can ultimately destroy your plant, or even your entire hydroponic crop. This type of plant destruction can be prevented, by taking a few precautions.

Materials
Hydrogen Peroxide, Spray bottle, net pots, container plant, razor blade, rockwool, small bucket or large Tupperware container.

Prior To Transplanting
Prepare your hydroponic system to receive a new plant. In our case, this is a 5 gallon DWC (deep water culture) bucket that has been ph balanced between 5.5 and 6.5, de-chlorinated, and heavily aerated.

Some planting mediums need to be prepared ahead of time. So if your planting medium requires a presoak in PH balanced water or a sterile rinse, prepare this prior to proceeding with transplanting.

Transplanting

Step 1
Gather and sterilize materials.

Step 2
Fill a small open top container with clean water. While others might disagree, tap water is actually good in this case because it is chlorinated. The chlorination will help to destroy microbes, and other unwanted organic material on the plants root mass.

Step 3
Extract the plant and root ball from container. If you are starting with a peat pot, it’s easiest to soak the peat pot before crumbling it away.

Step 4
Very gently remove as much soil as possible with your fingers. Be careful not to damage any of the roots, or small hairs on the roots. At this point, your plant will still have organic debris, vermiculite, bark, perlite, or even chunks of peat pot attached to the roots.

Step 5
Holding the green portions of your sprout out of the water container, place the root mass in the water container. Agitate the water over the root ball until all the dirt and organic material is removed.

Step 6
You will likely have to stop, replace the water from your washing container, and repeat the previous step a couple times, to completely remove all organic matter attached to the root mass of your plant.

Step 7
Rinse the root mass, by spraying it with a diluted H202 Hydrogen Peroxide solution. We made our rinsing solution with 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, and diluted it to 3ml for every liter of water. H202 can be dangerous, treat it as you would any other hazardous material. Especially if starting with a higher concentration of H202.

Step 8
Since we are using rockwool for our transplanting example, with a razor blade we slice into the rockwool from the side, all the way to the center where you would typically sow a seed.

Step 9
Gently stretch the rockwool open, and insert the sprout. If the root mass does not fit, or fits too tightly, either stretch the rockwool or slice away some rockwool to accommodate for the sprout.

Step 10
Insert the freshly prepared sprout into our net pot. Depending on plant size, you may need to add other growing mediums around the rockwool, such as red clay, or perlite..

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Sprinkler Head Replacement

| April 30, 2012
A Hen and a Drake Green Teal on the truck bed. Not a limit on anything, but a fun morning out.
If you have a home irrigation system, then you have probably had some sort of experience with a broken sprinkler head. A broken sprinkler head isn’t too difficult to fix, and instead of hiring an expensive landscaping pro, you can do it yourself. Broken sprinkler head replacement:

Step 1
Dig out the damaged sprinkler head. Leave a few inches around the head to work with. Set aside dirt and lawn.

Step 2
Unscrew damaged sprinkler head.

Step 3
Purge any dirt, broken sprinkler components, or debris from the riser(the pipe that the sprinkler head is attached to), by running the sprinklers for a couple seconds.

Step 4
Screw on the new sprinkler head.

Step 5
Test run your sprinkler. If it runs properly. Fill in the space around the sprinkler head with the dirt or lawn patches that were removed to access the riser pipe.

Still Not Working
If the sprinkler is not functioning properly, remove the sprinkler head and try to purge the riser of any debris again(Step 3). If a major leak persists, its likely that the riser pipe is damaged. Cautiously dig deeper around the base of the sprinkler head to access the entire riser pipe. A new riser or connection elbow may be required.

Still Not Working more…
Remove any damaged parts, and take them with you in a bag to a home improvement store. Ask for assistance in finding the appropriate replacement pieces. Depending on your sprinkler system and application, the use of pvc glue, or plumbing tape, may be necessary.

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